Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Korcula, Split, and the Coastline, Croatia

The past few days we have spent driving north from Dubrovnik (which is very south in Croatia) along the coast. The first day driving up the coast we were met by rocky rocky land with some grape vineyards (great wine) and small towns. We then took a short ferry ride to the picturesque island and town of Korcula. The old town of Korcula was extremely quite as the tourist season is over and thus all of the shops and restaurants were closed for the winter. The town is very senic and if you have a chance you can checkout a few pictures that I posted on facebook of the town. I look forward to returning to this island in the spring as the hostel (which was closed) looks awesome.

The next day we had a longer drive up the coast as we took two car ferries and then drove up to Trogir which is about 20 minutes north of Split (both on the mainland). The landscape breathtaking and unlike anything I have seen; enormous rocky mountains that are met by the smooth clear adriatic sea. I envisioned Croatia to be overrun by tourism which I know it is during the summer months but what has surprised me is that you still see that life is very modest here with old houses along the road with wonderful orange, pomegranate, kewi, and olive trees along with vineyards filled with fruit. Croatia is not a resort location but a natural beautiful place that is impossible for a tourist to refuse.

Today was a beautiful day with the warmest weather I have seen since my time in Lisbon and Madrid. We spent the day exploring Split which is the second largest city in Croatia. Split is quite modern with a promenade that reminded me of the French Riviera along with a large food market. Walking through the market my dad said to pay attention to the faces of those selling the goods. The faces were beautiful and aged. You could tell that they all had worked hard and had been through struggles over the years but their eyes sparkled and their faces glistened with joy and you could tell that each had a special story to tell.

Tomorrow on Thanksgiving we head further north and inland to Plitvice Jezero national park and the following day we will head back to the coast. This weekend we will take a translator with us out to the village of Kukuljani where my great grandparents and thus our lastname came from. We will have the chance to reconnect with some relatives and hear their stories which will be very exciting.

Happy Thanksgiving to all and enjoy your turkey and stuffing which I will miss dearly.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Walking around Dubrovnik it is hard to imagine that only a number of years ago the majority of this city was bombed out and sections set on fire in the war of liberation from 1991 to 92 with the peace treaty being signed in 95. Over two thirds of the homes were destroyed and many world heritage sites bombed. In such a short period of time thanks to the aid of the UN and a number of countries, the city has been rebuilt and restored into what it is and has always been a wonderful city surrounded by a huge protective wall situated on a beautiful coastline with crystal clear emerald water.

Dubrovnik has always been a popular tourist spot. One thing that makes Dubrovnik so special is that many locals still live within the old city walls where many tourist sights are located. It isnt like many other cities where the locals have been pushed out of by tourism. Dubrovnik is what I envision Italy to be like; alleys on steep hills with lots of steps, and laundry hanging out to dry. In the middle of town at the bottom of the hill is a large wide stone plaza. Cars arent allowed within the old city walls so the streets are wonderful to stroll along and people watch.

Dubrovnik is a tourist location but it is hard not to lose sight on the past and all that the Croatians have been through over the years. Since the war is so recent most everyone that you meet on the street besides the real young children remember the war and were affected by it in some way or another. The town is beautiful but the sense of war isnt lost. One day we spent an hour and a half hiking up the huge hill outside Dubrovnik for a wonderful view of the city along with the coast from north to south. At the top of the hill was an old fort still with a number of gunshot holes in the doors. The view was breathtaking but the memory of the horrible past can never be forgotten.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Ljubljana, Slovenia

What a hidden secret in Europe. Ljubljana is a city filled with both baroque and art nuveau buildings. The city also embodies the cafe/coffee outdoor dining culture like in Paris. The city is built around a river with a number of buildings creating a beautiful setting. It is only fitting that on my last day traveling alone that I had a number of unexpected memorable moments.

The first moment happened while I was wandering around and suddenly about 9 cop cars surrounded the area near me which was a street cars aren't allowed on. I soon saw a tinted car and realized that it was an escort for someone famous. As it ends up the President of Greece was in town and as having a meeting with the major of Ljubljana. They both shared a nice embrace and a brief 30 minute meeting.

The second moment was in my hostel where I shared a meal with a local (a lot of locals eat at the restaurant in he hostel). He is a film director and shared a lot about his work and the current film festival in Ljubljana along with what life living here and in Slovenia is like.

The final memory was watching Slovenia beat Russia in "futbol" to advance to the world cup for the first time in a number of years. There was a celebration in town for the team today and people are still dancing in celebration in the streets.

This is the end of phase 1 of my adventure. Phase 2 begins tomorrow when I meet my parents and sister in Croatia. I am thrilled to finally have the opportunity to visit Croatia to see where by family is from. I can't wait to share my experiences with everyone. After Croatia Mum and I'll continue to Italy to conclude the adventure. Don't worry I'll keep blogging the next three weeks but with the end of hostels also comes less Internet access so be patient.

As I finish phase 1 it is fun to look back on my experiences. Beginning the trip I was scared shitless at the thought of doing this trip alone. I honestly didn't know what I had gotten myself into. I now laugh wondering what i was sacred about. This trip hasn't been scary one bit. The scariest part has been realizing how little we all really know about the world. With this lesson learned I know I have no choice but to keep traveling to learn.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Salzburg, Austria

Things normally are not how they appear in the movies, but Salzburg and the surrounding countryside is as beautiful as the Sound of Music shows. Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz got into town today and were beginning to film a movie. Hopefully the movie shows Salzburg as the same beautiful place. The town of Salzburg reminds me a bit of Vail with fancy shops, quaint picturesque streets and alleys, and of course the wonderful markets with amazing pretzels.


While in Salzburg I did the Sound of Music (SOM) tour. On the tour they drive you around to all of the spots where they filmed and believe me there are lots! We also went out to the countryside where the lake district is. The scenery there was beautiful with the Austrian alps jetting out from the crystal clear blue lakes. Not only did I learn a thing or two about the movie but I also got to see the Red Bull headquarters. Who knew it was created over 20 years ago in Austria! Thankfully the horrible smell of Red Bull doesnt fill the country air or I might not be leaving with a great memory. Salzburg isnt just the home of SOM or Red Bull, but also where Mozart and the man who wrote Silent Night were born.

Now I am off to stay in an old prison in Ljubjana. Dont worry I havent done anything "illegal" in Europe besides the jaywalking which in Austria is frowned upon even if there arent any cars in sight and on a narrow one way road. It can result in a huge ticket and scolding by the locals.

I am sad to be leaving Austria because I have throughly enjoyed the beauty, the culture, friendly people, the pace, and food. Its only fitting as I leave that I think of good ole Austrian Arnold... Ill be back!

Sunday, November 15, 2009

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas

It is beginning to look a lot like Christmas everywhere I go... in Europe. Ever since the end of October I have seen Christmas lights on buildings and in town squares. Now the famous Christmas markets filled with sweets and treats, alcoholic punch, sausages, and of course beautifully crafted Christmas decorations are popping up everywhere. It is hard not to get into the Christmas spirit with sparkling lights glistening all around and children bundled up and walking around like penguins. Families from all backgrounds and social levels come out to browse these famous Christmas markets and greet friends. For kids it is the excitement of cotton candy, balloons, trains, and riding ponys. For adults the pastries and punch are delicious!

I don't think I have ever gotten ready for Christmas this early and in some sense it kills me that it isn't even December yet. However, I have to admit with the environment around me it is tough not to be like a little kid and get excited for the Christmas spirit. How many more days?

Vienna, Austria- Opera

Vienna is an elegant city that has a hint of Paris. As I write this I am sitting in the Vienna Opera House listening to the amazing orchestra warm-up. I am sitting on the ground in anticipation for Wagner's Gotterdammerung, a 5 1/2 hour long opera. Vienna has a wonderful way in which cultural activities are such an important part of their life that they make it available for all ages to attend. They sell 3 and 4 euro standing room tickets day of for all shows that take place in the magical opera house. They have a fun tradition where you show-up to get your standing room ticket and then you tie a scarf to your spot so that you can leave and come back when the show starts.

Vienna is an absolutely beautiful city filled with amaying architecture, music always in the air, and a warm friendly environment. At this point in my journey I have been most surprised/pleased by the city of Vienna. I am sad to be leaving this great city but am off to Salzburg to see if the hills are alive with music and maybe catch a little Mozart.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Thank You

I just wanted to thank all of you for reading my blog. It has meant a lot to me to recieve notes from so many people telling me that they are reading and enjoying it. My parents have also said that many of you have commented to them on it so thank you. I have never been a writer and have always struggled with it so to do this is big for me and I thank you for your support and for being interested enough to follow me.

It's hard to believe I am over halfway through this trip and that my entire family will be here with me in a little over a week to participate in my adventure. I'll continue to blog on this trip and I know that this won't be my last adventure as I have caught the traveling bug.

Thanks again for reading and your messages they mean a lot and keep me going!